I've already order dies and brass, and have a supply of .577 hollow base 535 grainers, so just need a rifle:)
Frank
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
burkefj |
New Snider shooter, what rifle is best for target shooting? |
Lead | |
|
Hi all, I seem to be migrating backwards in my interest in rifles, I've worked my way back to sniders now, and am looking at a couple. I understand the mk
3's are the best for target shooting as they have steel barrels, or is it not that critical, is a good mk2** good if it has a good bore? I plan on
shooting pyrodex RS and swaged 577's in the rifle, nothing hard, I use pyrodex in my martini-henry, 71/84 mauser, and trapdoors with cast and it works
quite well, and is a bit softer than 2F or 3F. What do you suggest?
I've already order dies and brass, and have a supply of .577 hollow base 535 grainers, so just need a rifle:) Frank
Last Edited By: burkefj 06/23/09 15:21:39.
Edited 1 time.
|
|||
Dantforth |
|||
|
Well, I hate to throw a wet towel over your parade but .577" projectiles don't shoot worth a d*%# in the Sniders. Most are shooting .590"
conicals or round balls, which work much much better. That being said, the Mark of rifle doesn't matter as much as the condition of the rifling. The short
rifle and the cavalry carbines have five groove fast twist rifling which stablizes the large slugs better than the three groove, slow twist (1 in 72") of
the three band infantry rifle or the cadet. Most here....I don't speak for all, I believe use black powder but the substitutes surely have their following.
So, a two band or short rifle or Sgt's model....depending on what you like to call it, is the ticket "IF" the rifling is up to snuff. Good luck.
You should get lots of help from some of the experts here.
|
|||
burkefj |
|||
|
Great, that's good info, I was gathering the bores were larger than .577 from some of the postings I've read, I shoot them in my zouave for
muzzleloading matches anyway, so I can still use them for that. I don't mind getting a mold, or shooting balls, however I'm not sure how the balls
will do at 200 yards. I was wondering what the advantages or disadvantages were of the two band or short rifle, that's good to know, and maybe I'll
look into those as well.
Frank |
|||
GarretA |
|||
|
Hello Frank and welcome to the realm of Sniderdom! I've gone through the steps of .577 hollow cavity, round ball and over-bore-sized bullets myself and can
attest to the range of results. I agree with what Dantforth is saying, however, you can get some good shooting results from the "correct" .577
projectile. Most of what is experienced as bad results come from the use of bullets that don't duplicate the designs that were worked out during the Snider
teething pains. I'm going to over-simplify this here, but basically these used some fairly deep, thin skirted bases with a plug to drive out the skirts
into the rifling on firing (so far this is same for the muzzleloading bullets). Part of the problem with the vast majority of muzzleloading .577 bullets is the
center of gravity being too far rearward. I don't know why this is a factor for breech-loading and not for muzzleloading, but the deeper cavity shifts the
center of gravity forward to help in stabilization. I've researched into this myself and this comes from 2 English brothers that went to the length of
making new core plugs for their standard "minie" type moulds. It's a challenge and will take a lot of time (I have yet to make this core plug
myself, but I am going this direction), but worth it if you want to duplicate original specs. I'd have to dig around just a bit to find the articles, but I
have a complete series of articles on the subject published in the magazine, "Classic Arms". If you're interested, send me a PM and I can
photocopy the info and send to you. It's fascinating reading even if you don't decide to go that route.
That said, it's a lot easier at your starting point to go right to an over-bore-size mould. That way you can get started shooting sooner and save any project like what I've described for later. Go to the Cartridges and Reloading forum and start reading. There's a lot there and hopefully you'll find what suits you. Best of luck! Garret |
|||
Pukka Bundook |
|||
|
Welcome Frank!
Another observation on fast twist/slow twist; It Appears that the condition of rifling in the muzzle of the fast twist models is more critical than that in the slow twist. In other words, it's easier to get a ratty slow-twist to shoot something like, than it is a fast twist. Up to now, I have not got better accuracy from a fast twist barrel. This may partly be due to using a .60 cal homemade bullet that is fairly short, but I have also tried hollow-base and .590 Coyote dish-base bullets. Of the carbines, my Cadet shoots best (when I do my bit!) a fast twist I have with a fairly decent bore comes second. This may be because the Cadets weren't fired after conversion from the 3-band, so the bores are invariably in better shape. BTW, my first loads for the snider were 500 gr. hollow base, and I couldn't keep them on a big cardboard box at 25 yds! cheers, R. |
|||
Carignan Salieres |
|||
|
Action and barrel types don't make as much difference as the twist and condition. So don't worry at all about MkII or MkIII actions or iron/steel
barrels. Both are fine.
Welcome to the forums. -Ryan |
|||
burkefj |
|||
|
Great, more excellent information, are the IMA rifles a MK 2 or MK3 and for the $550 or the select with bayo kind of luck of the draw, I don't mind paying
a bit more for a known article from someone like joe salter....
Frank |
|||
Carignan Salieres |
|||
|
I am not sure what they have there now. There were a lot of MkIII Nepalese long rifles that went through them. The Lord carbines are awesome if they have some
left, I love those.
If you have the money, I would shop around and buy a really nice one. -Ryan |
|||
snider volley |
|||
|
ima is crap shoot but you do get excellent customer service if your not happy , ijust prefer gunbroker as you can see what your getting and bid with
confidance , i got my three bander there for under five hundred and it has excellent rifling and mk3 acton action is like new the wood is a bit rough but its
all british made( i hear these are from afghan and used as drill guns thus explaining the beat up wood and great action and bore)
chin chin |
|||
Viclav |
|||
|
Frank,
Just to emphasize the point, the IMA/Atlanta Cutlery Sniders are not British-made weapons, but of Nepalese manufacture. The JC&A Lord carbines are an exception, but I don't think there are any left in stock. Nothing necessarily wrong with the Nepal rifles... I believe the reigning ISSO champ used one to gain the title. Joe Salter's certainly got one of the larger Brit Snider inventories these days, and you won't go far wrong with one of his (I purchased a MKIII Canadian short rifle a few years back.) The auction-site offerings are a bit sparse of late... mostly Egyptian shotguns. Victor "Always carry a firearm east of Aldgate, Watson."
Last Edited By: Viclav
06/25/09 06:03:50.
Edited 1 times.
|
|||
gcrank1 |
|||
|
Is not 'target shooting with a Snider' an oxymoron?
Just kidding, but one mans group is another mans pattern. I dont expect 'target' quality tight groups from my MkIII carbine but it has surprised and pleased me with some nice 'clanger' hits and is lots of fun. So much in fact that I havent really gone for the 'paper dont lie' test but have returned to my simpler days of 'if it hits where you are lookin' keep knocking them down. |
|||
snider volley |
|||
|
how far do you want to carry that comment ?? fifty cal sniper riflers will laugh at a 7mm mag so on and so fourth, n then again i think my 37 mm pak gun will
reach out a couple miles or more to target....................
i'm with you they are fun to see what you can squeeze out of them |
|||