not a snider crack but I still could use some help from you pros!

feeds@yuku.com (tumtatty) — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:15:27 GMT

I have an 1898 Krag that I purchased recently. When I stripped it apart to clean the piece I noticed that the stock was cracked below the receiver! As you can see from the pics there is a hairline crack that runs from the base of the trigger guard up to the cutout for the receiver. I can wiggle the stock and there is definite separation.

How do you go about repairing a crack that isn't quite wide enough to get into but is a serious fracture?

Greener GP barrel takedown - and loctite...

feeds@yuku.com (martinibelgian) — Sun, 13 Dec 2009 08:08:14 GMT

1 of the pitfalls of the amateur gunsmith, and yes, I did it, some time back.... Each time when I takedown and reassemble my Greener GP 45-70, I use some threadlocking compound on the (takedown) barrel threads to make sure the barrel stays 'put'. After all, it is a BP match rifle, so rigidity/accuracy is pretty important. No problems up to now - except last time, I apparently I used the wrong bottle of loctite - not the weak threadlocker, but a stronger one.
Today, I felt that...

Firing Pin Hits Left

feeds@yuku.com (gunboat57) — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 11:54:06 GMT

When I started using Jamison brass with rifle primers in my Mk IV Martini I noticed that my firing pin is striking left of center maybe .020 to .025 inch. I didn't notice it when using the big shotgun primers in my CBC brass. I am getting some misfires so I've got to do something to bring the firing pin to the right relative to the primer.

Some info: firing pin tip is within .005 of being centered in the block. The block is centered in the receiver at the back. The left...

Gloves for keeping metal clean

feeds@yuku.com (Vulture) — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 10:26:25 GMT

In years past I had a ready supply of nytril (spelling) gloves provided by my employer that I could use to handle the cleaned and degreased metal when bluing or browning the metal, but now that I'm retired I'm finding it impossible to find any that will fit my big hands so my question is will plain clean cotton gloves work just as well? Those I can pick up anywhere.

Counter-boring a Snider

feeds@yuku.com (MichaelNH) — Wed, 09 Dec 2009 13:50:28 GMT

All, I was talking to Tumtatty about possibly trading one of my Sniders to him, and the best candidate was a P56 sergeants rifle, converted to Snider. The problem is, there is a dent in the barrel about 3" back from the muzzle which has caused a high spot in the middle of one of the grooves. I want to find a gunsmith who can counter-bore the muzzle end to remove this high spot, but leave the groove diameter the same. Is this possible? If so, any recommendations for a 'smith who can...

Percussian cap won't ignite charge / nipple design problem?

feeds@yuku.com (Kierlup) — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 11:24:20 GMT

Dantforth and I finally shot the Remington percussian rifle (W.H. Soper) this weekend. It proved to be every bit as we hoped. Shooting at about 100 yd., with a patched .375 ball, we started with 50 gr. of Goex ffg. It's a 7 land slow twist barrel. The target was out in the pond, an old birdhouse, so we couldn't exactly walk up, but it seemed to be hitting virtually point of aim. BUT, the cap wouldn't ignite the charge. We had to remove the nipple and prime, replace the nipple, and...

Rear Sight Suggestions?

feeds@yuku.com (gunboat57) — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 14:53:24 GMT

I installed a No 1 Mk III barrel on my Martini-Enfield and have been using the sights that the barrel came with. To make the rear sight go low enough to zero at 100 yards with my 1900 fps reloads I had to remove the slider on the rear sight and cobble a wedge to hold the rear sight at the proper elevation. What I'd like to do is remove the whole rear sight and mount a new rear sight. The barrel diameter is .720 and the top of the rear sight blade needs adjust as low as .590 above...

Martini extractor's ??

feeds@yuku.com (peterb632) — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 10:08:45 GMT

Can anyone tell me if a M.H. mark III type extractor will fit in a Mk.I/II rifle?.
I know the Mk.III extractor was strengthened but is it just a drop fit?.

My extractor in my Mk.I/II (factory rebuild) is a bit worn & I was thinking of getting a Mk.III type if it will go in?. Ideal opportunity with IMA's "black Friday" sale on now.

Peter (Burlington, Ontario)

Rebarreling a cut MLE

feeds@yuku.com (Kyleno4mk2) — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:28:58 GMT

Hello,

I'm undertaking a project to re-barrel/restore a sporterized MLE Mk 1.
Has any one got any advice? Who makes the best action wrench, head space gauges, etc?
Is there any thing particularly tricky about re-barreling an Enfield?
Thanks!

Cocking indicator keeper screws.

feeds@yuku.com (The Double D) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:49:05 GMT

The request for cocking indicator keeper is a reoccurring topic here on the board. Just for the record contact Scott Stonehill at Evans Obsolete Screws - http://www.customscrewsandmore.com he can provide them to you.

Not a British Arm, a Rigarmi Colt 1860 clone

feeds@yuku.com (MAP) — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 09:10:03 GMT

I found a Rigarmi 1860 Colt Army pistol, made in 1974, at a local antique store, it was missing some parts but I figured I could get it going. The trigger screw was one of the bits missing. Most parts I needed I could use modern repro parts. But it turns out that RIG didn't use the same size screws as Pietta, ASM, or Uberti. I had Bill at Lodgewood look at it this weekend at the N-SSA Fall National Skirmish, he tried a bunch of screws but nothing fit. Bill suggested having the frame...

Making Martini keeper screws

feeds@yuku.com (Pinky) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 15:26:32 GMT

Wanted to beg steal borrow or even buy

the wee little screw that holds the cocking indicator pin/shaft in.
For some reason mine had 2 cutouts in and the bit that actually engaged was rather small needles to say being the ham fisted brute I am I managed to brake it not sure how but I did. So luckily (in some ways) as my .303...

Snider chamber cleaning brush

feeds@yuku.com (dodger444) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 13:37:16 GMT

Hi All has anyone had problems with the chamber cleaning brush ? I got mine a while ago I used it last week-end -I pushed it in my mk3 3 bander when I pulled it back out the brush remained in the gun. The collar had come off the flexible rod . I am open to any suggestions on how to re-attach it.regards Roger

Snider barrel and reamer specs

feeds@yuku.com (BillOregon) — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 07:24:30 GMT

I believe this has come up before, but if one wanted to build something from scratch to be chambered in .577 Snider, what would the proper barrel land and groove diameters be? And how about a proper chamber reamer. I suppose it would depend on what brass one intended to use -- Magtech or Jamison.

Martini trigger probs

feeds@yuku.com (gerrycan) — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 02:00:09 GMT

Hi all,
I hope someone can help with my triggers - one is MH [Mk111 ?] one is ME [now a303/357 sporter]. The MH is a Braendlin with about 30lbs.
trigger ,the ME a much more subtle beast about 6-8 lbs. any ideas or links please. Gerry

best penetrator?

feeds@yuku.com (The Double D) — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 17:20:37 GMT

I got this from www.nitroexpress,com and it came from some where else:

Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all...

Time for the Ultimate Nepalese Rifle Cleanup topic

feeds@yuku.com (MichaelNH) — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:53:40 GMT

With the 'untouched' Nepalese rifles going for less than the price of dinner and a movie, maybe it's time for the Ultimate Cleanup Topic to be pinned to the top of the forum. There are several ways you can contribute to this topic. 1) write up your step-by-step from you gun; 2) write up your best steps for cleaning one of the 'untouched' rifles; 3) nominate your favorite existing topic by including a link in the 'Ultimate' post. Once the topic is off and running,...

Imagine my surprise

feeds@yuku.com (Poseidon66) — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:33:08 GMT

I ordered a pair of the Nepalese Francotte parts rifles from IMA in hope of getting a complete action plus spares to make myself a 30-30 or possibly a 32-40 or 38-55. Something low pressure or BP. Everything went off like clockwork until I opened the box and found a lovely pair of Gahendra parts rifles. The actions both look good. Neither opens but I can soak them etc I'm sure. The question is: Would the Gahendra be ok to use? Frankly I like the look of them better.

...

Uneven case expansion .303 martini

feeds@yuku.com (Pinky) — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:06:43 GMT

This is realy pre gunsmithing as I hope it will bring me answers! I actually managed to get a couple of hours on the range today and use my Nice .303 martini carbine I had noticed this phenomena last time I shot her but it was as I was resizing the brass so not very helpful but today I carefully extracted a case and looked at it as extracted. (I will get pictures up soon) the case seems to expand at the top but keep a straight line along its body at the bottom in relation to the chamber the...

Cartridge clamping

feeds@yuku.com (Fabian23) — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 04:37:20 GMT

I am currently converting some .41 Swiss CF cartridges such that I can set a 6mm Flobert blank in them offset to the rim to form .41 Swiss RF to play with my Swiss Peabody and Milbank-Amlser. I have made a few and the concept works, it just involves a good bench drill and endless changing of drill bits, monotonous but not difficult.

My problem is this, how to clamp the cartridge in the bench drill vice? Currently I have a sheet of roofing lead on each vice clamp face, it works...

Gunsmithing